Friday, 27 April 2012

Stockings: Aristoc Harmony vs Gio Fully Fashioned

As a stockings dealer I am often asked which are the 'best' fully fashioned stockings to buy. The answer, of course, is Aristoc Harmony which were made in the 1960s and 1970s, along with their pre-cursors the Top Teen and Ascot these 15 denier, 60 gauge stockings were about the best quality ever made. Needless to say they are now hard to find and can sell for £25-30 per pair.

So I thought it would be interesting to compare them to their modern equivalent - Gio fully fashioned stockings. A big part of Gio's marketing campaign is the fact that their stockings are made on the old Aristoc machines, not in itself remarkable as there are no modern machines made. A more pertinent slogan would be that they are made to the same pattern as the Aristoc Harmony stockings. (Think knitting patterns)

Throughout the 1950s, 60s and 70s there were thousands if not tens of thousands of stocking 'brands' and 100s of companies selling stockings, while most of them were made on a small number of machines they were not all made to the same pattern. Some were longer or wider, had stretch welts or fancy reinforced soles, some had thin seams or ankle motifs (clocks), and of course there were different shaped heels - cuban, point, manhattan etc.

So, how do they compare?
As I mentioned above, the Gios are made to the same pattern as the Harmonys, I compared like for like size 11 black point heel stockings and they were exactly the same size and shape. Thats an 11 inch foot and 41 inch leg length. All the reinforcing on the foot, the length of the heel and the welt were identical. The big difference which you can see in the photos is the quality of the yarn used. The Aristocs are a much firmer and smoother yarn, the Gios are very floppy. Also the Gios are overdyed and the first few washes the water turns black though they don't look any different on wearing.

Harmony on the left Gio on the right

Harmony on the left Gio on the right

If you can get them Aristoc Harmony FFs will last longer than the Gios due to the firmer snag resistant yarn which makes putting them on easier and less likely to bag and so get snagged. But the Gios are probably the best modern equivalent on the market. I've tried many modern brands and they all have small differences in construction, but they are all made of similar yarn.

Tuesday, 24 April 2012

Marshall & Snelgrove: The Other M&S.


The Oxford Street shop c1912

The first shop was opened in Vere Street - just off Oxford Street in 1837 by James Marshall. The name of Marshall & Snelgrove was established in 1848 when John Snelgrove who had been an assistant in the shop became a partner. Initially the shop was a drapers, buying high quality fabrics directly at source. Eg Silks from Lyons, selling mantles, hosiery, costumes, furs and lace.


Advert in London Illustrated 1884

Several shops were opened in the counties, mostly in Yorkshire and the north Midlands initially to serve the London clientele when they were on holiday. Resorts such as Harrogate and Scarborough. Then the industrial towns which had a burgeoning rich middle class - businessmen and their wives who wanted the best quality goods. Each shop had an individual character and played to its own strengths suiting the local clientele and their needs. The London shop was situated on the edge of a professional district and also was convenient for Mayfair.

By 1900 the shop was synonymous with fashion and quality but an economic depression in the first decade of the 20th century and the impact of the First World War left the company in financial difficulties. A merger with Debenham & Freebody in 1919, in which both companies retained their individuality but expanded their buying power benefited both. Marshall & Snelgrove continued to sell high-end goods, moving from drapery to ready to wear and associated accessories, though the Oxford Street shop retained its couture workroom.


Advert in The Bystander 1905


Advert in The Bystander 1906

The early ready to wear era was a period in English fashion where exclusivity was paramount and the small workshop system of manufacturing was ideally placed to supply this need. Adverts often used the tagline 'Exclusive to Marshall & Snelgrove' or 'Only at the Marshall & Snelgrove Country Shops'. Well-known manufacturers such as Rayne shoes or Resnor coats and dresses designed models that could only be bought at Marshall & Snelgrove, though similar models with slight differences could often be bought at other shops.

The Second World war changed this system when mass manufacturing of utility goods replaced the workshops. Changes in fashion and less formal lifestyles led to a steady decline in business throughtout the 60s and eventually Debenhams re-branded the shops with only one or two locations surviving into the 80s and by then feeling very down market.


Advert 1929


Advert 1936


Advert December 1947


Advert 1952


Packaging 1940s and early 1950s

Wednesday, 18 April 2012

The House of Hartnell

From Vogue 1979


Click for VERY Big


26 Bruton Street, Mayfair. 1934-1979

Sunday, 15 April 2012

My Fashion A-Z: A is for Amies

Hardy Amies, one of the big 6, (or 7 if you like)  1940s and 50s British couturiers.
superb tailoring, fine details and use of cloth.


October 1949 Vogue


December 1952 Around Town & Shopping Opportunities


Still nifty in the 70s. Ready to wear in Vogue.


Double page ad from Vogue September 1974

Monday, 9 April 2012

Chic Ahoy!

Fabulous nautical jumper pattern from Woman's Fair April 1939.


Click for Big


Click for Big

Thursday, 5 April 2012

With All the Frills Upon It

Aage Thaarup designs an Easter Bonnet: Picture Post March 20 1940.


Click for Big


Click for Big


Click for Big

Monday, 2 April 2012

Spring Shades

Victor Steibel's New Look March 1947. A full pleated skirt with a bustle bow is layered over a slim skirt just a couple of inches longer and with contrasting stripes. Made of gold and green silk grossgrain


Vogue March 1947


The dress is in the V&A Museum (Picture source V&A)


The dress is in the V&A Museum (Picture source V&A)